Monday, September 17, 2007

Kept safe.

My pack was at my feet and I was happily reading, whiling away the time in a tiny semi-abandoned train station on the border of Hungary and Croatia.

A loud male voice startled me out of my book; when I looked up a uniformed man was staring down at me.

Seemed to me he wanted to see my ticket or maybe my passport. I produced both quickly. It was, after all, about 10 days after the attacks on New York, so it seemed to me that the extra precautions were understandable.

He looked quickly at both, then spoke to me in a rattle of Hungarian. My last name is Hungarian so I suppose he was hoping that I would understand.

Not a word registered.

He sat down beside me.
Slowly slowly we started communicating. Mostly by me drawing in my notebook. A really poor map of my travels to date seemed to interest him, as well as my hand drawn map of North America in which I had pin pointed where I lived. Then suddenly he spoke again and finished his sentence with a loud, "BOOM!"
He grabbed my book and drew out the Twin Towers and airplanes and looked expectantly at me. "Boom!" He repeated.

I could only shake my head and look sad, but that seemed to satisfy him.

Around this time I was starting to get hungry (hungry in Hungary!), so I motioned eating and drinking. He understood.
Picking up my bag, he motioned for me to follow him. Out into the dark and deserted night we went.

On the other side of this little train station was a wee cafe. He bought me a sandwich and a beer and kept me company as I ate.

Another security guard had come up and they had a quick conversation, presumably about me from the glances, and satisfied, the other fellow moved on.

Before I was done my repast though, a small knot of old men who had been sitting in the corner smoking and drinking motioned 'my' guard over to their table. There was lots of loud words exchanged and much gesticulating.

The guard came back to me hurriedly and picked up my pack and hustled me out of there very quickly.

Back to my wooden bench, pack at my feet.

This guard continued to sit with me the entire time I waited for my train that night. He helped me with my pack when the train arrived, spoke to the porter on my behalf, helped me on the train and got me settled in.

There was a mix up with my ticket, seems I hadn't paid enough to get to Venice, but my guard helped me straighten it out with a minimum fuss and cost.

I rode the night train through Croatia and Slovenia. Every few hours guards armed with machine guns would yell and bang on the doors. "Passporto! Passporto!".

Until I returned from my trip I didn't understand why I was removed from that smoky little cafe so quickly.

Then a friend, a recent immigrant from Croatia, explained that a single woman, alone in a dark cafe must be up to no good. The old men were suspicious of me and wanted me out of their cafe.

Humph.

In retrospect, my travel tale could have ended very differently and much less pleasantly. My 'guard' may not have been legitimate. Being robbed by a uniformed 'official' is a tale that many travellers have told. That and worse.
To be honest, I hadn't considered that possibility until just now. Hmmm. Seems fortune was with me that night!
Thanks LGS, you inspired me with your own travel tale!

(oh, and unfortunately that picture isn't mine. But it IS a Hungarian train station!)

18 comments:

Pol* said...

I haven't heard enough about your travels, it is a personal experience that is hard to share... but you have done a good job with that tale. I am still dumbfounded that you travelled to such a distinctly different culture all on your own.

kimber said...

I love that there are good people out there. People who like to help. People who understand that cultural differences are interesting and exciting, not suspicious and evil.

Great travel tale, Tai!

Janice Thomson said...

What a lovely tale Tai and how wonderful that the guard was there to protect you and not something else. It brings back one's faith in the goodness of the human race. Loved this post.

Mz.Elle said...

This was wonderful to read:)
I too love that there are good people out there,willing to be friendly and helpful. I love too that language wasn't a real barrier.

Ian Lidster said...

An extremely interesting travel tale. The roles of women are very different in different societies. My ex was often struck by how Mexican waiters always deferred to the male in the twosome and never directed a question to the female. She was especially struck by an incident in which we were renting a car and the Herz attendant, who was extremely attractive, also flirted outrageously with me (OK, so I didn't mind so much) and then made an oblque reference to my wife of the day by saying: "Is that your wife? She is very cute." But, said nothing directly to her.

Big Brother said...

No matter where we've travelled we've always met really nice people who helped us or just passed the time of day with us. Like the taxi driver in Liverpool who went out of his way to escort us to the place where we were going and then took off with a wave before we could even properly thank him.

Jocelyn said...

I'm a whore for a good travel story, so you own me now.

Terrific retelling of a terrific story involving a rare and, yes, terrific man.

Keep 'em coming!

Unknown said...

That’s a wonderful story. I’ve learned that we meet angels in the strangest places; but always when we are in need.sm

Sugar. said...

Sometimes you meet the nicest people in the strangest places. You were lucky he was so helpful.
Good story, thank-you got sharing it.

Sugar. said...

oops - sorry about the typo...my brain is frazzled! I meant to say "Thank-you FOR sharing it".

geewits said...

Great tale, Tai. I'm glad everything worked out for the best. Give yourself some credit, though: I'd like to think you would have "picked up on something" if your helper had been "hot so helpful."

Lone Grey Squirrel said...

A great story. Look forward to more. I am glad you met such a nice guard. Unfortunately travelling alone in certain parts of the world is still a problem for women. Although, i had a similarly sinister experience in a cafe in Vienna. Ah, you have inspired another post!

Lone Grey Squirrel said...

By the way, I had a Hungarian friend by the name of Zrinyi. Is that a common Hungarian name? Any relation?

Crazy Me said...

Love this story. You were a lucky girl that night.

fjl said...

Oh wow, conspiracies abound. I enjoyed this one. ;-)

Mathieu said...

Great tale!
Nice to see that there are good people around.

We need those!

BostonPobble said...

More Travel Tales! More! Pleeeeeeease!!!!!! I love how you make it so we are all sitting there with you in that smoky cafe. Thanks.

Goodness, but I've missed you.

tsduff said...

Great story - hey, you went to all those places alone? Cool. I have a travel yen - would do it all the time but I'm too broke. I'm saving up right now in hopes of a next trip of Copper Canyon Mexico. Not so expensive as Iceland :)