Wednesday, June 06, 2007

Among the ruins of Ostia and one lone Bernini Angel.

This is a detail from the face blocks at Ostia Antica (you can see in the last post that I'm casually leaning against them. I really did enjoy my time there!)Interestingly, it reminded me of another place I hold fond in my memory.

And it was, oddly enough, Blarney Castle in Ireland.

Beautiful Blarney Castle, where Spider Girl and I roamed free in '99. Climbing trees, scrambling through dark under tunnels deep below the walls and scaling the ruins of the castle itself, free from red velvet ropes and warnings not to touch. (Also very free from handrails and other safety features that are so predominant in other places more concerned about litigation!)
(Pssst, I didn't take that picture. It's from Wikipedia. It was "Taken by Valdoria august 2006").
Most other countries (it seems to me) have their history and precious artifacts tied up, nailed down and encased in plastic only available from viewing at a great distance.

Not so Ireland, and not so Italy!
No, my experience with both countries was a general welcoming to experience first hand the art and architecture. (Lounging was obviously encouraged as seen by the strategic placement of low lying walls, placed most advantageously for weary Canadians.)
It said to me, "Here. Here is how we lived. What we walked upon and the things we saw. It's been here for hundreds of years before you arrived and will be for many more centuries after you pass."
That being said, I understand the necessity of 'protecting' things from humanity.

We'd be fools to allow all our precious objects exposure to the elements and religious dictate (witness the loss of many fine genitals to mallets, chisels and fig leaves), but sometimes history really needs to be touched to be understood. (And no! I'm not referring to the aforementioned lost genitals!)
So I'm really grateful to Italy for allowing it's history to absorbed in a more visceral manner.

And I'm really thankful to Gian Lorenzo Bernini (1598-1680) for carving the angels on the Ponte Sant'Angelo! My friends may laugh, but I've been crushing on Bernini since my last trip to Rome, and this trip just reinforced it.


We even made the trip to the church Santa Maria Maggiore to see his extremely modest tomb. In fact, it was so modest it was no more than a 'step up' to the main alter.

As that area was under some kind of restoration all I could do was wave and say 'thanks' to the man who took Baroque art and architecture to such marvelous heights in Rome.
(I didn't take that picture either. I couldn't even get near it! Thanks to mcsmith.blogs for this one!)

19 comments:

Mz.Elle said...

Ooooh that Marble in the last photo is incredible!
I love a place where you can enjoy it's wonders fully:)

Hermes said...

Love the pictures and am still actually kind of jealous. Bernini slays me too but I never got to see his tomb... I mean step. Makes me think. Who has the coolest grave in Italy? Its been a while but my vote goes to Dante's tomb in Sanata Croce, Florence. Because he's not in it!

Jarod said...

Beautiful! Your trip was obviously fantastic. I agree that sometimes history needs to be touched to be understood, although as a museum curator you have to let me cringe a little :) I remember kissing the Blarney stone a long time ago. Not sure if it worked.

jmb said...

Thanks for sharing Tai. Looking forward to the rest.

Sugar. said...

I have a crush on Bernini as well, I didn't get to see enough of his work while I was in Italy in'97. I'm sworn to go back someday; hopefully sooner than later. Great pics :)

Jo said...

Tai, those photos are gorgeous. I tried to enlarge them by clicking on them. I agree that relics of history, if they're not overly fragile, should be experienced with all the senses. It connects us more to the history.

More photos, please :-)

Cheers,
Josie

geewits said...

I'm glad you had such a great trip. You seem to really know how to enjoy Europe. I'm sure I'd be a mess. Thanks for the pictures*.

*even the "borrowed ones."

Hageltoast said...

I love this about castles England too and Spain and Germany, you can walk into and around them (sometimes for a fee but still) and touch them and picnic in them. :)

Jazz said...

I wanna go to Italy

Evil Spock said...

Veeeery jealous! I visited Europe in 2000, but I haven't been back since. I need to get back over there quickly.

Oh, thanks for visiting my site! How'd you find me?

Lone Grey Squirrel said...

hnzltWow! Enjoying this series a lot even though the green eye of envy is coming a calling.

Janice Thomson said...

I'm an admirer of Bernini's too and enjoyed these photos Tai. It's so nice to be able to see a few things through your eyes. Looking forward to more.

Scott said...

Beautiful pictures. So many places to see, so little time.

Spider Girl said...

Ah, Blarney Castle!

That was the best, Tai! I had such a good time there...remember the tree you climbed in the castle grounds?

You are right, Ostia Antica was similarly wonderful to explore--things to climb over, things to climb under, and history all around. :)

Anonymous said...

Yeah, Bernini rocks. I've had a man-crush on him since Art History 101.

kimber said...

I love the picture of you three reclining in the Italian afternoon.... ah, tranquil antiquity!

kimber said...

Also, I must add: pleased to hear that you three restrained yourselves from molesting the statues.

At least, when anyone was looking.... ;)

Big Brother said...

Mrs. BB and I really must go there. Beautiful pictures. By the way did you kiss the Blarney stone when you were in Ireland? It's rather cool, lying on your back , hanging out over the edge to be able to reach and kiss the stone. I may be Québecois but I can sling blarney with the best of them. Next summer we're going back for another couple of weeks since there are still things we haven't seen and many glasses of Guinness we haven't drunk

Ian Lidster said...

But, did you kiss the Blarney Stone?
Otherwise, loving your photos and your tales, my friend.
Ian